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Thailand Muay Thai
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You might have heard about it, or even seen
it on TV—the furious punches, crushing
elbow strikes, lethal kicks, powerful grappling
and artful feints. But nothing compares to seeing
them executed to loud cheers and heart-racing
tune of an accompanying wind-and-percussion
ensemble. Welcome to the exciting world of Muay
Thai, a martial art like no others, and a proud
heritage of a nation.
The history of Muay Thai is interwoven with
the history of the Thai people. A gentle, peace-loving
people, for centuries Thais had to defend themselves
and their land from aggressive powers. They
developed a form of close, hand-to-hand combat
best suited for the kind of rough-terrain battle
they were fighting. Over time it became a rite
of passage for Thai men to take up training
in this martial art. King Naresuan the Great
(1555-1605), one of the country’s most
celebrated warrior-heroes, is believed to have
been an excellent boxer himself, and it was
he who made Muay Thai a required part of military
training. Another milestone in the history of
Muay Thai was the triumph of Nai Khanom Tom
over 10 Burmese boxers in 1774. Taken captive
after the Thai capital fell in 1767, Nai Khanom
Tom was picked to fight before the Burmese king.
After defeating ten of them in a row, he was
freed and returned home a hero.
In the old days, Muay Thai was a dangerous
sport, with no safety gear of any kind for the
fighters, and only lengths of cords to wrap
around the fists in place of gloves. Over the
years rules have been written along the line
of international boxing regulations. In recent
years the sport has attracted a wide following
outside of the country, and training facilities
have been set up in countries as far as the
U.S. and the former Soviet states. In 1995 the
World Muay Thai Council was set up by cabinet
resolution in 1995 to promote this national
heritage at national and international levels.
At a conference held that same year, 78 member
countries voted for the establishment of a training
school where all elements of Muay Thai would
be taught. The Muay Thai Institute was founded
in 1997 and is now the only training school
accredited by the Ministry of Education.
An International Passion
Muay Thai, along with soccer, is certainly
the most passionately followed sport in the
country. Television networks broadcast fights
five days a week, and the fight results at major
stadiums are reported in all major newspapers.
International boxing is also very popular, and
the country has produced dozens of world champions,
but they all started out as Muay Thai fighters.
So it is not surprising that a boy as young
as seven or eight would start training to become
one—and many do, at stables across the
country. Most provincial capitals have a boxing
ring, but the ultimate dream of young boxers
is to fight at Lumpini or Ratchadamnoen, the
biggest and most famous stadiums in the country.
Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen alternate, so there
is a fight program every night. Tickets on an
average evening are 220, 440 and 1,000 baht,
but on big nights prices of ringside seats may
go up to 2,000 baht. Ratchadamnoen’s Sunday
Special rates are good bargains, with ringside
tickets going for 500 baht each. Fights usually
begins around 6:30 p.m., with preliminary bouts
featuring younger, less experienced boxers,
and build up towards the main event, usually
around nine o’clock.
Muay Thai is fought in five three-minute rounds
with two-minute breaks in between. The fight
is preceded by a wai khru dance, in which each
contestant pays homage to his teachers. Besides
the symbolic meaning, the dance is a good warm-up
exercise. You will notice that each boxer wears
a headband and armbands. The headband, called
mongkhol, is believed to bestow luck to the
wearer since it has been blessed by a monk or
the boxer’s own teacher. Since Buddhism
and the teacher play important roles in the
life of Thais, the headband is both a lucky
charm and a spiritual object. It will be removed
after the wai khru dance, and only by the boxer’s
trainer. The armbands, meanwhile, are believed
to offer protection and are only removed when
the fight has ended.
A match is decided by a knockout or by points.
Three judges decide who carries the round and
the one who wins the most rounds, win the fight.
The referee plays a very important role, since
boxers’ safety depends on his decision.
To one side of the ring is the band section,
comprising a Javanese clarinet, drums and cymbals.
They accompany the fight from the homage dance
to the conclusion. The tempo goes up as the
action inside the ring intensifies. The musicians
are mostly old-timers who have seen just about
anything, yet their music always makes the heart
race faster. It is said that the tune is a siren
song that the true Muay Thai devotee can never
resist.
On fight nights at major stadiums, especially
at Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen, tourists fill
up a sizable portion of the seats, and the number
is growing. Most opt to sit at ringside, to
see the action up close. On nights of major
events, usually advertised days in advance,
it can be hard to get tickets. You might want
to book through your hotels or travel agents.
Muay Thai Live
Bangkok & Vicinitiy
Lumpini Stadium
Rama IV Road, Bangkok Tel: (662) 252-8765, 251-4303,
253-7702, 253-7940
Fight Nights: Tuesdays and Fridays from 6.30
p.m, Saturday afternoons 5-8 p.m., Saturday
nights from 8.30 p.m.
Ticket prices: 220, 440, 1,000 baht (ringside)
Ratchadamnoen Stadium
Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Tel: (662) 281-4205,
280-1684-6
Fight Nights: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays,
Sundays, starting at 6.30 p.m.
Ticket Prices: 220, 440, 1,000 baht (ringside);
special discount on Sunday nights
Channel 7 Stadium
Behind the old Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit),
opp. Chatuchak Park, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 272-0201
Fight Schedule: Sundays, from 1.45 p.m., third
Wednesday of each month starting at 12.00 noon
Ticket prices: Free admission
Rangsit Stadium
336/932 Prachathipat Road, Rangsit, Pathumthani
Tel: (662) 992-0099
Fight Nights: Wednesdays & Thursdays from
8.30 p.m.
Ticket Prices: 110 (women only), 220 baht
Samrong Stadium
Samrong Road, Samutprakarn Tel: (662) 393-3592
Fight Nights: Fridays and Sundays, from 8.30
p.m
Ticket Prices: 100 baht for women, 200 baht
for men
Omnoy Stadium
74 Moo 12 Tumbon Omnoy, Amphoe Krathumbaen,
Samutsakorn Tel: (662) 420-4317
Fight Schedule: Saturdays from 11.45 a.m.
Tickets: 200 baht
International Stadium, Chachoengsao
23/22 Moo 6 Thepkunakorn Road, Tumbon Sothorn,
Amphoe Muang, Chachoengsao
Tel: (66-38) 821-746-50
Fight Schedule: Sundays, from 4.00 p.m.
Tickets: 200 baht
Chiang Mai
Dechanukrau Boxing Ring
Bumrungrat Road, Amphoe Muang, Chiang Mai
Fight Nights: Saturdays and Sundays
Phuket
Phuket Boxing Stadium
Phuket Road, Amphoe Muang, Phuket
Fight Nights: Fridays from 8 p.m.
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